Executive Summary

The Asscher cut diamond has a very similar shape to the square-shaped emerald cut diamond. They are both step cut diamonds with the same number of facets being 57. The difference between them is that the Asscher diamond has a higher crown, smaller table and larger step faces than the emerald diamonds. These characteristics make the Asscher cut a more brilliant diamond than the emerald diamond. The small table, high crown, deep pavilion and faceted culet of this diamond creates an illusion in the diamond known as the “hall of mirrors” effect.

The ideal L/W ratio is 1.00 but the more square-shaped ones have an L/W ratio of less than 1.05 while the rectangular shaped ones have an L/W ratio of 1.08.

The setting that best brings out the octagonal shape of this diamond is the square silhouette mounted on a four-prong setting.

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The best color grade for this diamond is grade I. with this grade, you get an almost colorless diamond within your budget. However, the bigger the diamond size, the more noticeable the color in it is. Asscher cut diamonds with < 0.5 carat weight and a color grade of K is still considered good while those with 1.0 – 2.0 carat weight and a color grade of K are considered poor.

The best clarity grade for Asscher cut diamond is the VS2 clarity grade. This is the grade that offers you the best value for your money. For many other diamond shapes, the clarity grade that offers the best value for money is the S1 grade but the Asscher diamond has larger facets. This makes it easier to see inclusions present in the diamond. So you have to go higher up the clarity grade than with others. It is possible to see an eye-clean S1 grade diamond but it is quite rare.

The Asscher cut was first introduced to the world of diamond cutting in the year 1902 but did not become popular until much later, in the 1920s. The Asscher brothers, the owners of Holland’s Asscher Diamond Company (now known as royal Asscher Diamond Company) were first popular for cutting the Cullinan, a 3,106 carat rough diamond, but were also the ones who created the Asscher cut.

The development of this diamond-cut came at a time that the most common and the most sought after diamond around was the brilliant round cut diamond. The unique appearance of this diamond made it highly noticeable and it became appealing first to people who wanted something different from the norm. It instantly became an alternative option to the round cut diamond that dominated the diamond market.

The square shape of this diamond made it popular among noble people, aristocrats, and royal families. That is why many family heirlooms that have been passed down from one generation to the other many times usually include this Asscher cut diamonds.

For many decades, after the end of the great depression, this cut lost its relevance and was only found in stores that specialized in vintage jewelry. It was until the beginning of the 21st century that this diamond cut became popular again and it regained its relevance. This resurgence was driven by modifications to the Asscher cut. These modifications made it more brilliant than the original Asscher cut diamond from the 1900s.

Many laboratory certificates, like those given by the AGS and GIA, often refer to the Asscher cut as a square emerald cut diamond. This has sparked a debate among many on whether or not the Asscher cut and the square shaped emerald cut are the same.

Analysis of the asscher Cut

 

Analysis of the Asscher Cut

The shape of the modified Asscher cut is very similar to the shape of a square emerald cut except that it has a smaller table, a higher crown, and larger step facets than the emerald diamond. This makes the modified Asscher cut, with this characteristic, more brilliant than the emerald cut. Similar to the emerald cut, it also has a step cut and the total number of facets it has is 57.

When you look through the table of an Asscher that is well cut, it looks like it has concentric squares. This is because the pavilion facets under it are well positioned. The Asscher cut also has cropped edges similar to the emerald cut but because of the square shape of the Asscher cut, the cropped edges make it appear like it has an octagonal shape. The unique shape of the Asscher diamond is brought to the fore when placed in a square silhouette mounted on a four-prong setting.

The normal length to width ratio of the Asscher cut is 1.00 but there are some that are slightly rectangular in shape with a length to width ratio of 1.08. Asscher cut diamond with length to width ratio less than 1.05 would appear like a square but if it is greater than that then it would appear more rectangular than square. The width at the corners of the Asscher cut diamond may vary but it generally has a small table, a faceted culet, a high crown, and a deep pavilion. These characteristics allow it t have a tremendous luster and also creates an illusion that is very fascinating. This illusion is called the “hall of mirrors” effect.

Before making that purchase, it would be a good idea for you to evaluate the cut of that Asscher cut diamond. The chart below gives you a pretty good idea of what to look out for.

 EXCELLENT VERY GOOD      GOOD        FAIR     POOR
Table  61 – 69 57 – 60 or 70 – 72 54 – 56 or 75 – 79 51 – 53 or 75 – 79 < 51 or > 79
Depth  61 – 67 59 – 60.9 or 67.1 – 70 57 – 58.9 or 70.1 – 74 54 – 56.9 or 74.1 – 79 < 54 or > 79
Girdle Very thin – slightly thick Very thin – slightly thick Small Medium > Medium
Culet None Very small Small Medium > Medium
Length to width ratio 1.00 – 1.03 1.00 – 1.03 1.04 – 1.05 1.06 – 1.08 > 1.08

 

The best cut Asscher cut diamond are the ones that have the characteristics under the “EXCELLENT” column but diamonds with such excellent characteristics are not usually very affordable. The better option would be the more affordable one which is the “VERY GOOD” ones.

The Color of the Asscher Cut Diamond

The Color of the Asscher Cut Diamond

According to experts, it is subjective, trying to evaluate the color of the Asscher cut diamond. Classifications of the color have been carried out by the GIA and they are grouped into;

  • Grade color D: All color of a diamond are usually considered white, even though they consist of varying degrees of color. Grade color D is usually scale (colorless).
  • Grade color E: There is a difference between Grade color D and Grade color E but the difference can’t be detected with the naked eye it can only be detected by a gemologist in side by side comparison, and rarely by the untrained eye.
  • Grade color F-H: GIA Grade color on a scale from D-H are usually the diamonds that are colorless (without any color). When you compare different diamonds that fall into this category from grade D to H, you are unlikely to find any difference in the color of the diamonds, especially as an untrained person compared with the naked eye.
  • Grade color I – Z: diamonds that are ranked within this color grade from I – Z usually contain brown or yellow tints that are easily noticeable, even to the naked eye. It is possible to find grade I Asscher diamonds that can pass as ‘colorless’ and do not have these very noticeable yellow tints but as you progress further into the grades from J downwards, the inclusions become more noticeable.

The D-F is a usually cool color, while the G-H classification is those with a slightly warmer color than the former class. Buyers may have different preferences. Most might prefer to go for the cool D-F grade while other buyers might prefer the warmer G-H grade. But generally, the price of the Asscher cut diamond mostly depends on the level of demand and supply. Some buyers would prefer to pay for the particular grade (mostly D-F) that they want rather than settle for something less. This demand is usually what drives the price of this color grade of the diamond. It is, however, important to know that the difference in the color of the diamonds in the different color grades is not usually noticeable to the naked eye, especially the untrained eye. It takes the expertise of a gemologist to determine the color grade of a particular Asscher diamond. Since the grade drives the demand, and the demand drives the price, it is, therefore, safe to say that the prices of this diamond would be well lesser than they are now if there were no color grading.

The large open facets of the Asscher diamond cut, especially those with more than 1.50 carat, makes it easier to see the body color.

A comprehensive guide to evaluating the color of the Asscher cut is given in the table below.

  EXCELLENT  VERY GOOD      GOOD        FAIR     POOR
< .50 ct.  D – G  H – I  J – K  L – M > M
.51 – 1.0 ct.  D – F  G  H – I  J – K > K
1.0 – 2.0 ct.  D – F D – F  G  H – I > I
> 2.0 ct.  D – F  D –F  G  H – I > I
Fluro None Faint Medium Strong – very strong Strong – very strong

 

One important feature of the Asscher cut diamond is that the bigger the size of the diamond, the more obvious the inclusion in it will be. This is shown in the chart above. Asscher cut diamonds with < 0.5 carat weight and a color grade of K is still considered good and the one with the same size and color grade of G is considered excellent. Compare this with an Asscher cut diamond with a size of 1.0 – 2.0, in which diamonds in the color grade of G are considered good and those that have been graded as K are considered to be poor.

Many expert gemologists have suggested going for the I color grade. This is really the best option to consider as it allows you to get a very beautiful color without necessarily spending your last savings to get the diamond that you want.

The Clarity of the Asscher Cut Diamond

The Clarity of the Asscher Cut Diamond

Evaluating the clarity of the Asscher cut diamond is also subjective, just like the color of the Asscher cut diamond too. The GIA (gemological institute of America) have also provided different grade classification for the clarity of this diamond. The grade classification is as follows;

  • IF – Internally Flawless
  • VVS1 – Very Very Small Inclusions 1
  • VVS2 – Very Very Small Inclusions 2
  • VS1 – Very Small Inclusions 1
  • VS2 – Very Small Inclusions 2
  • SI1 – Small Inclusions 1
  • SI 2 – Small Inclusions 2
  • I1 – Inclusions 1
  • I1 – Inclusions 2

But then when it comes to the clear preference when buying, the customers have the final say. Different customers might have their own standard for the clarity of this diamond. Some customers might not mind compromising the clarity of their choice of the diamond as long as the inclusion in it cannot be seen visibly with the naked eye. Some other buyers, on the other hand, might prefer to hold out for the flawless one.

It is important for a buyer to know that the best characteristic of the Asscher cut is its clarity. The table of this diamond is flat, this allows you to have an unobstructed view of the middle of the diamond. This invariably implies that when an Asscher cut diamond has inclusions in it, the inclusion is more noticeable to the eye than other diamond cuts. The clarity chart that is given below gives an appropriate guide for evaluating the clarity of the Asscher cut diamond.

EXCELLENT VERY GOOD       GOOD         FAIR      POOR
< .50 ct.  FL – VS2  SI1 SI2  I1 > I1
.51 – 1.0 ct.  FL – VS1  VS2  SI1  SI2 > SI2
1.0 – 2.0 ct.  FL – VVS2  VS1 – VS2  SI1  SI2 > SI2
> 2.0 ct. FL – VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 > SI1

 

If you want to rightly balance the clarity of your Asscher cut diamond with the price, it would be a good choice to go for the VS2 clarity grade. This is unlike other diamond cuts where the preferable grade would be the S1 grade, to balance both the clarity and the price. This is because the Asscher cut has a larger facet, so the inclusions are easier to see. It is possible to see an eye-clean S1 grade diamond but it is quite rare.

The Carat Weight of Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Carat Weight of Asscher Cut Diamonds

The carat weight of the Asscher cut diamond mostly depends on the size of the diamond (in millimeters). The carat weight of a diamond is something that you have to put into consideration before you buy that diamond. After having considered the cut of the diamond, compared with the color of your choice and also importantly, the clarity of the diamond (preferably the VS2 grade), you should also consider the size, which corresponds to the carat weight and invariably also has an effect on the price of the diamond.

For Asscher cut diamonds, the bigger the size of the diamond, the heavier it is (the more the carat weight). The table below shows the carat weight for the different sizes of the Asscher cut diamond.

     MM SIZE   CARAT WEIGHT
 3.54 x 3.54  0.25
 4.5 x 4.5  0.5
 5.1 x 5.1  0.75
 5.61 x 5.61  1.0
 6.05 x 6.05  1.25
 6.43 x 6.43  1.5
6.76 x 6.76  1.75
 7.07 x 7.07   2.0
 7.36 x 7.36  2.25
 7.62 x 7.62  2.5
 7.86 x 7.86  2.75

 

If you are a prospective buyer and you are interested in an Asscher cut diamond but you are working on a low budget, the guide below helps you to make your choice considering the cut, color, clarity and carat weight of the diamond.

EXCELLENT CHOICE

Criteria

  • The carat weight must be at least 1.0
  • The symmetry and polish should be excellent or at least very good.
  • The color should be grade G and above.
  • The clarity should be S1 or above. To be safer though, you can go for VS2.
  • It must not have fluorescence.
  • The length to width ratio should be from 1.0 – 1.04.

VERY GOOD CHOICE

Criteria

  • The carat weight must be at least 0.9.
  • The symmetry and polish should be excellent or at least very good.
  • The color should be grade H and above.
  • The clarity should be S1 or above.
  • It should not have any fluorescence but at the most, it should be faint or medium blue.
  • The length to width ratio should be from 1.0 – 1.04.

GOOD CHOICE

Criteria

  • The carat weight should be at least 0.80.
  • The symmetry and polish should be very good to good.
  • The color should be grade I and above.
  • The clarity should be S1 or above.
  • It should not have any fluorescence but at most, it should be faint or medium blue.
  • The length to width ratio should be from 1.0 – 1.04.

When buying a diamond, as far as there are things that you must look out for, most of which have been mentioned above. A common indicator for a good diamond as well would be for you to look for one that is certified. The certification can either be the GIA certification or the AGS certification. There are also things that you must watch against. This is to ensure that you don’t end up buying a poor diamond.

  • You must watch out for blemishes that can be seen by the naked eye. You don’t want to wear your cherished diamond to an event and someone points out a spot on the diamond. That’ll be embarrassing right?
  • You must watch out for diamonds that have an extremely thick or extremely thin girdle.
  • You must watch out for diamonds that have poor symmetry or even fair symmetry.
  • You must ensure that the diamond you are buying does not have a strong blue fluorescence.
  • You must also watch out for diamonds that do not have any certification from the GIA or AGS. This is because there is no guarantee or authenticity on the diamond. It doesn’t necessarily mean that every diamond that does not have these certifications is a fake or is poor. But it is just safer for you to avoid it than to regret buying it later.

These criteria are actually to reinforce everything that I have written about earlier in the article. The truth is if you follow the different guidelines given for the cut, color, and clarity and you also religiously heed to the guideline for making a perfect choice of diamond if you are on a low budget, then you are not likely to make any of the mistakes listed above.

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